The Maldives: My Island Retreat as a Solo Traveler
Photo Credit: Velassaru Maldives
Located 611 miles southwest of Sri Lanka in the Indian Ocean, the Maldives is home to perhaps the best beaches in the world. The country has white-powder sand beaches with cyan-blue waters lapping at the shores of nearly 1200 islands, and every resort has its own private island. Even during the Coronavirus pandemic, the Maldives remains a dream tourist destination at the top of travel bucket lists.
The Maldives is one of a few international destinations that American travelers can visit while we all continue deal with the global threat. But when you’re ready to travel again, check out a detailed rundown of how I traveled to the Maldives during the Coronavirus pandemic, so you can plan a future trip. I provide info on everything you should know, including details about the required health declaration form and what you should expect on an international flight and at the airport in Malé, the capital of the Maldives.
Visiting one of the country’s postcard-perfect islands was a refreshing island vacation that I needed and wanted to share with family, friends and travelers who may not know much about the tourist destination, usually popular among honeymooners. Through the lens of a black gay traveler, I let you know what it was like staying at a luxury resort on a private island as well as an unexpected situation and how you can avoid it.
Spa treatment rooms (Photo Credit: Velassaru Maldives)
Luxurious Island Vacation at Velassaru Maldives
After I made it through Customs at the Velana International Airport in Malé, a staff member from the Velassaru Maldives greeted me, graciously manned my suitcase, and called for a private speedboat to escort me to the resort.
I hopped on the boat and climbed the ladder leading to the upper level, where I could get a good view of Malé and our route to the resort as we left the airport. I was the only guest on the boat other than the three crew members. It wasn’t until the boat slipped from underneath the Midhili Magu Bridge that, for the first time in my life, I could see a line of overwater bungalows on the horizon. I’d seen them in glossy advertisements and aerial videos but seeing them firsthand was the ultimate “wow” moment.
Infinity Pool (Photo Credit: Kwin Mosby)
We passed a few overwater villas on the right. The rain made it difficult for me to spot which resort would be my home for a couple nights until the Velassaru Maldives finally came into full view. It was a 25-minute ride from the airport. As dramatic as it may sound, it was almost as if the rain and storm clouds gave way to the sunshine, as the speedboat approached the pier. My jaw dropped as the resort staff stood in a line to greet me with warm smiles.
As I walked off the boat, barely listening to my escort, I was entranced by my surroundings. To my left, I could see and hear the water cascading off the side of the infinity pool, which had a line of lounge chairs with oversized umbrellas on both sides. On my right, I could see the spa with 10 overwater treatment bungalows. In front of me, the Velassaru signage stood a few feet away as I followed the sandy path shaded by tall palm trees. The walkway led to the main open-air pavilion, where I was served with a warm washcloth to refresh and a glass of freshly-squeezed juice. From the beginning to the end of my stay, Myla Alpaz, Marketing & Communications Manager, would text me via WhatsApp to ensure I was having a pleasant stay. And in case you didn’t know, Universal Resorts owns nine resorts in the Maldives, including the Velassaru Maldives.
Water Suite Exterior View (Photo Credit: Velassaru Maldives)
The Maldives Isn’t Just for Honeymooners
Located in the South Malé Atoll, the Velassaru Maldives features five restaurants, two bars, a spa and more than 80 villas, including a 2,900 square-foot Water Suite with a private sundeck, bar, infinity pool and a home theater system. Resort staff and guests must wear face masks and adhere to the required 6-feet social distancing.
And as a solo traveler, it was easy to social distance from other guests, especially in my 1,033 square-foot Beach Villa, which included a deck with access to the beach. I could walk a few feet to take a dip in the ocean, lay on a lounger to catch some rays, or just sit on the deck and work on an upcoming writing assignment. This was definitely my kind of social distancing.
In addition to the oceanfront view from bed, my spacious accommodations had floor-to-ceiling wooden doors that open to an al-fresco bathroom with a roof that that shields two sinks, two mirrors, a spacious rainfall shower and a deep porcelain bathtub from the elements. But it was the additional, uncovered outdoor shower that was the piece de resistance. Taking a shower au naturel in the warm sunshine while listening to the birds chirping was the best.
Beach Villa Bathroom (Photo Credit: Velassaru Maldives)
LGBTQ+ and Black Travelers Welcomed
Similar to most resorts in the Maldives, the Velassaru caters to couples and young families, which also make it a great location to plan a honeymoon, destination wedding or vow renewal ceremony. But during my stay, I met a few solo and gay travelers, including a gay couple from New York City that told me they fell in love with the country a few years ago. In fact, they travel to the Maldives once a year and stay at the Velassaru. I also spotted two other gay couples during my stay. Keep in mind that the Maldives is a conservative and Muslim country. It is illegal to be gay or lesbian in the Maldives, and it’s also illegal to drink alcohol.
However, life on resort-owned islands skews in favor of tourists because owners know where there incoming is coming from, especially during a pandemic. Regardless, I always tell travelers to respect the local customs. Surfing for a hook-up on Grindr or Scruff is probably not a good idea. And even if you try, Scruff app users are warned with a pop-up message similar to this: “The country you have recently entered has laws that criminalize sexual acts between consenting adult males as well as laws that criminalize gay activism and public gatherings.” That being said, be a smart traveler.
Yes, I felt comfortable as a solo gay traveler at Velassaru as do most LGBTQ+ travelers on resort-owned islands, but if I had planned a long stay in Malé, I’d be very cautious about any public display of affection with a boyfriend or partner.
Not surprising to avid Black travelers, but most guests at the resort were white. I spotted an Asian female guest and a multi-generational Hispanic family during my five-day stay, which I’ll explain later. And honestly, it’s pretty standard to not see many, if any, people of color at luxury resorts, specifically African-Americans. I casually chatted with a few people during happy hour, but as a Black American, the people I connected with and talked to the most were primarily the Maldivian and Indian staff at the resort’s restaurants, bars and spa. I was also trying to adhere to social-distancing guidelines and come back home safely without COVID. So, my interactions with guests were limited and at a safe distance.
Sand Restaurant (Photo Credit: Velassaru Maldives)
Dining Options & Outdoor Activities
The Velassaru Maldives attracts guests from the U.S., U.K., Russia and Germany, but due to COVID, the resort hasn’t seen a steady flux of guests (250 maximum) since 2019. The pandemic forced the temporary closure of Etesian, an on-site restaurant that serves Latin American-inspired cuisine, and it also halted regular live music performances at Fen Bar. Guests can pull up a barstool for happy hour at Chill Bar, where international tapas-style fare is served along with made-to-order cocktails. For dinner, don’t miss watching the sunset as you dine on fresh seafood at Sand Restaurant, or watch Master chefs showcase their culinary flair with sushi and sashimi at Teppanyaki. Both restaurants also offer guests idyllic oceanfront views as they dine.
Try Taste of Maldives at Turquoise restaurant. It’s local coconut curry with tuna, five traditional dishes and rice. (Photo Credit: Kwin Mosby)
The resort provides several recreational activities to guests, including a guided snorkeling tour on the house reef, sunset group yoga, glass-bottom kayaking, wakeboarding, parasailing, big game fishing and excursions to spot dolphins and manta rays. I faced my fear of drowning and learned how to snorkel with a certified instructor. There’s also a PADI-certified dive school if you want to learn how to scuba dive. The marine life is out of this world.
Witnessing a school of flying fish simultaneously hopping out the clear blue water for the first time is one of my most memorable moments from this trip. You may have a chance to see them too, if you’re soaking in the spa’s hydro-pool overlooking the ocean. As I mentioned before, the resort’s spa has 10 treatment rooms, but it also has an overwater yoga pavilion, a sauna and a refresh room with a deck.
Spa specialists are required to wear face masks, but I requested a maskless selfie with these ladies. (Photo Credit: Kwin Mosby)
Coronavirus Case Halts Island-Hopping Plans
After a couple days at the resort, I would eventually need a spa treatment to destress after an unfortunate travel glitch. Graciously arranged by the Maldives Marketing & PR Corporation, this press trip was to include two nights at the Velassaru Maldives and three nights at the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island, home of the first underwater restaurant. Unfortunately, my visit to the Conrad was cancelled.
Apparently, a guest at the Velassaru Maldives tested positive for COVID before leaving the resort. Initially, the Maldivian Health Protection Agency (HPA) refused to approve my transfer to another island. All resort staff was tested for COVID and received their negative test results within 24 hours. The HPA approved my transfer, but it was communicated to me that the Conrad Maldives would prefer if I didn’t visit out of an abundance of caution. So unfortunately, I had to save that exquisite meal at the Ithaa Undersea Restaurant for another trip.
Aagilia, hostess at Vela Restaurant (Photo Credit: Kwin Mosby)
Yes, I was disappointed, but I understood the decision. It’s an important detail to know if you want to visit multiple islands in the Maldives. The HPA must approve all island transfers, which is also another reason why it helps to have a travel advisor plan your trip and to help guide you through unexpected situations.
You should also know that if you plan to stay at the Velassaru Maldives, you can request a PCR Test when you make your reservation or when you arrive at the resort. The staff will arrange the testing through a Government approved facility, but instead of leaving the island, a resident doctor will administer the test, which costs $110 (USD) per person. The test results are usually received before (minimum of 24 hours) departure and all charges are paid directly to the resort. This is extremely helpful now that all air passengers coming to the United States, including U.S. citizens, are required to have a negative COVID-19 test result before they board their flight to the U.S. International travelers will also have to fill out the online health declaration form 24 hours prior to their departure. Completion of the form will allow travelers to enter into the airport check-in area.
Despite the unexpected turn of events, I was more than happy to spend the remainder of my time at the Velassaru Maldives. The staff is friendly and accommodating. I’ll never forget my breakfast banter with Aagilia, the hostess at Vela Restaurant, and the sunlit happy hours with Naaim refreshing my Passion Fruit Martinis at Chill Bar. My trip to Maldives wasn’t just about the unbelievable white sand beaches, tepid turquoise water and the amazing accommodations; it was also about the people I met along the way. And I can’t wait to visit the Maldives again.
Passion Fruit Martini with seasoned olives at Chill Bar (Photo Credit: Kwin Mosby)
Check out my personal photos from my Maldives trip on my Instagram account @kwinmosby.
Full Disclosure: The Maldives Marketing & PR Corporation was gracious enough to offer this multi-day press trip to me as a solo traveler. All opinions expressed in this article are my own.
